Here in the Southland, onions can be a year around crop. In fact, we’ve found that for green onions, we don’t even need to seed them anymore.
Now most people think of onions as a summer crop, but it’s pretty nice to go pick some fresh crisp green onions for your cooking, in the dead of winter. Actually it’s more of a three-season crop, as it will live, but greatly slow its growth in the heat of summer.
Some time ago I was given a large bunch of green onions from the store that were dried out and unsaleable.
I decided that the best thing to do was to plant them.
In six weeks they looked like this:
And when pulled they looked like this:
The wonderful thing is that the story does not end here. When preparing the onions for cooking, I simply cut off the lower (bulb) part and saved it, along with the roots, which I replanted.
These are simply replanted and they grow again. Here’s what they look like in three weeks, despite the scratchings (and replanting) due to an errant hen:
This cycle can be repeated over and over for many years, indicating an endless supply of green onions -forever!
I love this flower. It will flourish on poor soil, needs little fertilizer, feeds your pollinators, repels pests, all the while beautifying your homestead. This is dwarf French marigold, Tagetes patula. Our homestead is practically overrun with these. Our bees and butterflies love them.
(If you plant them, be careful never to contaminate the blossoms with pesticides that will kill off your pollinators.)
DFMs are a non-chemical way to control root knot nematodes, which are the bane of many a gardener with sandy soil, especially in the South. Commercial vegetable growers have powerful fumigants for root knot suppression. These are unavailable to gardeners, and dangerous to use, as well.
One can use a cover crop of DFMs in a fallow year, to nearly completely suppress these nasty pests, or one can interplant with the veggies to partly suppress them.
Another nemesis of many gardeners is the squash bug. A heavy infestation can kill your squash plants.
The first year I had a border of dwarf French marigolds around one of my squash beds, I noticed that I had no squash bugs in that bed whatsoever. Yet within a hundred feet, I had another squash planting that was heavily infested. Since then I have surrounded or interplanted DFMs with my squash. And, in the past three years, I’ve never seen another squash bug in my garden – although my neighbors have them.
(To get photos of squash bugs, I had to visit other gardens that had them.)
DFMs seem to work with cucumber beetles as well. These have vanished from any spot near the marigolds, although there are usually a few on my sunflowers in the front yard. I think they help with other insects as well. But they have failed to be any help with squash borers or pickleworm.
While they repel many harmful insects, they seem to be good hosts for some beneficial insects. I see a lot of assassin bugs on mine, and I am careful to let them alone. They may eat a bee now and then, but they’ll also eat aphids, flea beetles, caterpillars, Japanese beetles and many other pests.
Hints for growing your own
T. patula will do fine in the North, but is especially suited for southern USA, because extreme heat doesn’t bother it a bit. It will continue to produce masses of bloom when other flowers have faded out. Of course sweltering heat is often accompanied by drought – and I would advise watering as needed in times of drought.
In the South, you can plant these seeds in beds outside in the fall, winter or spring, and they will grow when the soil warms in the spring. To start them blooming earlier, begin them inside as you would tomatoes. I find good results by sowing them thickly in trays in a sterile seed starting medium. Don’t overwater, as this encourages damping off. When they are in their second leaf, transplant into individual containers.
Here in South Carolina, I’ll be planting about January 20 to February 10 in the trays. They are set out in the ground about the same time tomatoes go out. Do not put in deep shade or boggy areas. Mine bloom from early May through early December. It takes a hard frost to kill them.
I use fertilizer VERY sparingly. I have tried deadheading flowers, but find it’s really unnecessary, and very time consuming, due to the large quantity of blooms. About mid-season, the plants begin to get a bit rank, so I prune them severely, removing about half the plants. This stimulates regrowth and dense clusters of new bloom.
To save seeds cut off dead flowers when they are mostly dry, but not shedding seeds. If you wait too long, they will spill all the seeds from the capsules. Put them in a warm dry place with plenty of air circulation (flat trays or hung up). Protect from mice if necessary. When they are crunchy dry, and the seeds are starting to fall out, hold each seed capsule tightly, and pinch off the dried blossom petals. Then roll the capsule in your fingers over a tray or container and the seeds will fall out.
Flowers are produced by the thousands, but you’ll only need a dozen or so to supply plenty of seed for yourself for next year. Just be sure it’s dry before you put it into closed containers or it may mold.
I have not tried other types of marigolds, but others who have, indicate to me that these do not work for pest suppression or repelling.
Many beginner gardeners start off with a bang and are excited and encouraged when their seeds germinate and their started plants take off and grow. But then the weeds begin to show more vigor than the desired veggies.
Even experienced gardeners, who know that you cannot let the weeds even get a couple day’s advantage, sometimes lose the garden to weeds, when there’s several days of rain and it becomes too muddy to get into the garden.
It’s pretty dismaying when you have trouble finding your plants among all the weeds. You can wind up spending many hours of catch-up work, and still find that your plants were severely set back, both by the competition with weeds, and the damage you did to their roots when you pulled up the weeds.
It’s been several years now, since I basically solved the weed problem. Sure, there’s weeds in my garden, but they are few and far between, compared with what they used to be. I find that just a few minutes a week is sufficient to pull up the weeds, and keep my own veggies growing without competition.
There are three basic reasons why the weed problem mostly disappeared:
1. I no longer till my garden. Every time you turn over the earth, you expose new weed seeds to sunlight and air. Weed seeds can lie dormant in the soil for many years, then suddenly germinate when you’ve given them ideal conditions to grow.
I’ve been able to pretty much eliminate tilling because all my gardening now is in raised beds. I was forced to go to raised beds, because our land is as flat as it can be, and we are subject here in coastal South Carolina to occasional heavy rains. These rains would flood my garden and pretty much spoil it. Few of our garden veggies can stand in water without dying or getting riddled with disease.
The raised beds took a lot of work to set up, but once they are up and running, the work forever afterwards is minimal. I started with a mix of about 40% sandy loam topsoil, 40% well rotted compost, 10% crushed coquina (for lime and minerals), and 10% crushed charcoal (to help prevent leaching when those heavy rains come).
These raised beds are in production year around. As soon as one crop is finished, I start with another. About the only disturbance to the soil is when I pull a deep rooted plant like tomatoes, or a root veggie like carrots or turnips. With smaller plants like beans or peas, I just snip them at the soil surface and leave the roots in the ground.
2. When planting or setting out a new crop, I topdress it with about an inch of fresh compost. This compost has very few weed seeds, as it reaches a high temperature during its formation.
My soil remains soft; I can easily plunge my hand up to the wrist into the soil, just by wriggling my fingers and pushing. The soil smells sweet and it’s full of worms and insects, unlike most agricultural soils in the area, which are quite barren of life. I always figure that the worms are tilling the soil for me, as much as it needs and in a very natural way.
3. I don’t let the weeds go to seed. By having raised beds, I never walk directly on my garden. I have more-or-less permanent walkways between the beds. This means that I can always pull weeds, even if it’s very muddy. The weeds never get a chance to get ahead of me.
I can’t take very much credit for this system of weed supression. Actually it came as a pleasant surprise. And I had to study it a bit to come to an understanding of why there are so few weeds.
February 9, 2012
It’s time to plant, right now in the Deep South. If you wait until Spring, it’s actually too late. The plants need to get established before the heat of summer comes – and late planted nursery stock is much more apt to die.
One problem many homeowners don’t recognize is that, by the time fruit trees show up in the Big Box stores, it’s already too late. These stores are geared toward the North rather than the South.
There are many other reasons to avoid the Big Box stores and purchase from a reliable nurseryman. Our favorite local nurseryman is Stanley McKenzie of Lake City.
If you are in this area, I highly recommend him. If you are in another area, I encourage you to search for local businesses of equal competence.
Here are some reasons why I prefer my trees from Stan, rather than from Lowes, or Home Depot, or the grocery and farm store chains:
1. Stan knows what does well in the South, and the varieties he supplies are those that are tested for productivity here. The Big Box stores sell the same varieties nationwide, so you often see apples like Red Delicious, McIntosh, and others which do very poorly here. They require much more winter chilling than we get, except in an extreme winter.
2. Your questions are answered, if you go to Stan. At the Big Box stores, the staff usually doesn’t have a clue about how to best grow them.
3. Stan’s plants are stocky and strong. You won’t find any sickly, half dead ones there. I have lost trees purchased elsewhere, but have never lost one from Stan.
4. Stan’s prices are very competitive. Nuff said!
5. Stan offers varieties and kinds of fruit that you won’t find in the Big Box stores. Yesterday we purchased two plum trees, two rabbiteye blueberries, a pomegranite, and some spring bearing strawberries. I have looked everywhere for spring bearing strawberries, and have only found everbearing – until I asked Stan about them.
Last year we purchased a cold hardy Satsuma orange tree from him, and in earlier years got a Lisbon lemon (potted to go inside in the winter), muscadine grapes, figs, and pineapple guavas.
Stan is famous for his hardy citrus. He is expanding his line, as he finds varities that work here in the Southeast. I find it pretty neat to be able to grow apples (low chill) right alongside citrus trees. I’d be growing a lot more of both of them if I had the space.
Another favorite nurseryman, interestingly, is in the North, but they have southern experience and can supply some unique low-chill apples, as well as other fruit. This is Cummins Nursery in Ithaca, NY,so, of course, their items must be shipped to the South. What I’ve said about McKenzie Farm Nursery is equally applicable to Cummins Nursery.
Steve Cummins is exremely knowledgeble; he has always answered my questions well, and the best surprise is always in opening the box, and finding trees that are twice the size and in better condition than any other bare-root plants I’ve ever gotten. I certainly can’t recommend this family business more highly.
The mass merchanizers have ways to entice us to make impulse purchases. But planting a tree is a long term committment. Perhaps the wise words of Mark Twain would also apply here – “Marry in haste; repent at leisure!”
Our growing season for tender plants usually ends in mid to late November with a killing frost. But we can move fall tomato and pepper plants into a cheap homemade greenhouse to add extra heat for ripening and postpone the frost date. It would be nice if we could extend our season to Christmas, but we haven’t gotten quite that far yet.
Of course more cold-hardy plants can handle frost or even freeze, but when it gets really cold, they stop growing. This year I am also moving potted broccoli and cauliflower into the greenhouse, in hopes that the extra heat will serve to keep them growing and harestable through the winter. Otherwise we’d have to wait for warmer spring weather to continue their growth – and that sometimes ends with them bolting (flowering and going to seed), instead of heading.
In the spring the greenhouse is perfect for starting plants early. Actually the germination is done in trays at a southeast-facing window inside. But as the seedlings reach transplantable age, they go into separate containers and out into the greenhouse. We’ll tell more about this in a separate post.
We have two low-tech greenhouses to help extend our seasons. The smaller is on our deck on the southeast side, and the larger is attached to the southwest side of our house. Both are made of pvc pipe with some 1×2 bracing and covered with six-mil polyethylene plastic sheeting. The sheeting is attached at the top by being clamped between two 1x2s, but the rest is held in place with cheap spring clamps.
The sheeting is replaced seasonally, and is the only ongoing cost. I found that four-mil sheeting will not last long enough, but six-mil does okay.
We do not try to heat the greenhouses, but I do have water containers to help them hold the day’s heat and prevent night freezes as long as possible in the fall.
The larger one has served now for two years, and the smaller for a year.
Both will ultimately be replaced (we hope) by more permanent greenhouses, but for now, on a limited budget, they serve quite well. Neither cost more than a hundred dollars, though the larger one might go a bit over that now, with the recent rise in prices.
Here are some photos of our construction of the larger, so you can get a better mental picture:
Gardening is tough in the South!
Many southern gardeners have a lot of problems with pests. We think we’ve gone a long ways to solve most of the pest insect problems by working to build good populations of beneficial insects.
Many of the bad guys don’t have a chance here. Our paper wasps, assassin bugs, robber flies, mantises, lady bugs and others, along with our large bird population, keep most of the bad bugs from ever growing up.
It’s gotten so that my wife – who likes to raise butterflies – has to capture the larvae and bring them inside to munch on potted plants. Otherwise they become prey for one of our garden predators.
Pests are one thing, however, and disease is another. Heat and humidity seem to compound the disease problems. Even drought doesn’t seem to slow down the progress of disease.
This means that many veggies are only temporary. Tomatoes engage in a race with early blight, which gradually defoliates the plants. Our tomato crop was very good this year. But we also had them planted earlier than ever before. Folks that waited until the traditional plant day (Good Friday) pretty much lost the race. 85% of our tomato crop came on early. The rest was a smattering from a few holdout plants, especially the cherry tomatoes.
Squash and cukes race with powdery mildew, which also kills the leaves. I focused on tomatoes this year and the squash got planted late. We had very little squash.
Avoidance of the problems is very much coupled with good timing on plantings – early in the spring to mature before heat, or late in the summer to grow and mature in the fall.
I’ve come to appreciate a few veggies that just hang on and keep right on producing, no matter how hot and dry it is.
One of these is eggplant. We planted them early, made sure we had plenty of bees to set those first blossoms – and they’ve never stopped producing from June to now in late September as I write this. As far as I can recall there are only two problems I’ve ever had with eggplant.
One is pollination – which should be obvious to gardeners, but often isn’t. And the other is flea beetles. In past years I’ve had eggplant eaten up by flea beetles, but with our increased populations of predator insects, these pests were only a minor and brief problem while the plants were young. Years ago, I sprayed eggplant for the flea beetles, but it did little good, anyway.
The second of these favorites of mine is peppers. We don’t go in for hot ones, but we grow a lot of sweet bananas and some bell peppers. Like the eggplant, they have very few insect pests (in our current environment), and seem to only have problems if there aren’t enough bees to pollinate. Diseases are practically non-existant, and heat doesn’t faze them a bit.
The third is an old Southern tradition – okra. I believe okra could grow and fruit in Hell, as it simply loves hot weather. Young okra is a beautiful plant, with large dark green leaves and gorgeous creamy white flowers with red centers.
But as it grows, it only produces on the top, and the lower leaves die and fall off. By late summer it is a rank, ugly plant. Some of mine are six to seven feet tall right now, and look quite disgusting. But they still keep on knocking out the okra pods.
One secret, if you haven’t grown them before – pick okra young, before the pods get tough and stringy.
Have you got any favorite veggies that just seem to be long-haulers and failsafe for Southern gardens?
I recently received an e-mail from “Solutions from Science” that promotes a system of seed sprouting for emergencies.
Now the concept is good. We grow sprouts ourselves, and they are easy to do and highly nutritious.
But I get suspicious when I see that hype and misinformation are used to promote a high-priced product (and it is very high priced).
I have two questions for these folks – “Why can’t you tell the truth?” and “Why do your prices seem like a real rip-off?
I’ll leave the reader to judge further about the price. You can go to their site, if you want to see their comercial at: http://www.survivalsproutbank.com/
But here’s what they said in their e-mail with reference to the pollinator crisis:
“If only it was [sic] the weather. Unfortunately, it’s something much more insidious and much less understood than climate changes. It’s called “Colony Collapse Disorder.”
With Colony Collapse Disorder, you have entire hives of bees dying off, and no one has been able to ascertain why or pinpoint a cause.
You may wonder how this affects your garden.Look out the window. Do you have beautiful tomato plants… with no tomatoes? Are your squash plants leafy and vibrant… with no squash? Are you looking at a luscious green garden with little or no produce to show for it? That’s what a dearth of honey bees will do. You have to have bees to pollinate in order to make many vegetables and fruits.”
Tomatoes – honey bees? Nope! It’s true that honeybees will work tomato plants – when they reach a saturation point where little else is available and honey bees are desperate. And they may accomplish a little bit of pollination.
In all my years as a beekeeper and flower observer, I’ve seen honeybees on a tomato blossom maybe a half dozen times. Now I’ve seen bumblebees many thousands of times, and even seen sweat bees a whole lot more often than honeybees.
I love my honey bees and I maintain a few hives in my back yard. But it would be a phony argument for me to ascribe my tomato pollination to them. I have two species of bumblebees that consistently visit my tomato blossoms. And that’s the truth!
Squash? Again, it’s not a favored plant for honey bees. In a garden setting, which is what these folks refer to, honeybees aren’t likely to even visit squash blossoms. They are beat to the draw by squash bees, bumble bees and sweat bees.
Now in a large field, where there is little competition from other flowers (and there are few squash bees), honey bees are brought in to pollinate the squash. And they do a fine job, with a little help from bumble bees.
They go on to say: “According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, about a third of our food comes from pollinated plants, and the honeybee is responsible for 80 percent of that pollination. Larger bumblebees cannot pollinate as effectively (if at all) as the smaller honeybee. Today, wild populations of bees are nearly gone. Instead, the bee has become dependent on the human population to insure its survival, and beekeepers struggle to maintain vibrant bee colonies.”
Struggle? I’m not struggling to keep my honey bees alive. They are doing fine, thank you – as long as my neighbors obey label directions in using pesticides, I’m confident they will continue to do fine!
Bumblebees not pollinators? HA! A bumble bee is about three times more effective in pollinating cucumbers than a honey bee!
And many flowers are almost exclusively pollinated by bumblebees. Now in an agricultural setting, honey bees are more important, partly because they have 30,000 hive members as opposed to around 100 for bumblebees, and honey bees are portable and manageable.
But to question bumble bees’ ability to pollinate? That’s the biggest one yet!
What bothers me (and I see this a lot, particularly when someone is selling something) is the mixture of fact and fiction. When that happens we wind up with “myth” or “hype.”
And I’m not going to buy anything from those who play fast and lose with the truth!
It’s time for a short course in cucumber pollination. On Internet gardening groups and mailing lists, this question keeps coming up, over and over: “Why are my cucumbers falling off, or becoming deformed?”
To answer the question, we have to go back to some basics, because many new gardeners don’t understand them.
First off, cucumbers have separate male and female flowers. They are produced on the same plant – and the plants are basically self-fertile, although there is evidence that pollination is improved when there is cross pollination between separate plants.
Pollen must be transferred from the male blossoms to the female blossoms. It’s amazing to me that many people assume that this heavy, sticky pollen will just jump from one to another all by itself. Believe me, it does not jump – it would take a gale wind to move pollen from the male – and that kind of wind would destroy the plant.
Some plants are wind pollinated – corn, grasses, pecan and hickory trees, ragweed – but these make light, fluffy pollen grains that are produced by the billions.
Bees are the workhorse pollinators for cukes - basically honey bees and bumble bees; with occasional minor help from other bee species. Some will also say some beetles, ants, and other insects can tranfer pollen – but these are negligible.
A brawny and fuzzy bee is the best possible pollinator. They are totally equipped with branched hairs and strong electrostatic charges to carry pollen. A bee pushes its way through the flower structures and picks up large quantities of pollen on its body.
Now a bumble bee has been shown by studies, to transfer about three times as much pollen per flower visit than a honey bee. But honey bees make up in numbers what they cannot do in comparison to bumble bees. A typical bumble bee colony is about 100 workers, while a honey bee colony may have 20,000 to 30,000 workers.
Many gardeners assume that when a bee goes to a flower, that it is instantly pollinated. While this can be true for a fruit with a single seed (like a peach), it is not true of multi-seeded fruits like cucumbers. Many grains of pollen have to be delivered – and this takes numerous visits by bees.
If no or very little pollen is delvered, the fruit simply aborts. There may well be spoilage, starting from the blossom end. This is due to an opportunistic fungus, but no fungicide will fix poor pollination.
Well suppose then, that a few more grains get delivered to the flower – and some seeds get fertilized by those pollen grains.
The fruit may grow, instead of abort, but it will be slow growing and can be highly deformed.
The only portion of the cuke that developed was the portion where the seeds were – which is on the outer curve of the cucumber. On the inner curve there are NO seeds, so the flesh didn’t develop in this area at all. Also note that on the top end, there were very few seeds that formed, so the top end is also undersized.
When a full complement of pollen is delivered and evenly distributed across the stickly stigma of the female flower, the finished cucumber will look like the top one. It will grow rapidly, and be crisp and good flavord.
If some pollen is missing – and some seeds do not get fertilized the deformation of the fruit in the area of the missing seeds will show up in the shape of the fruit, as in the lower example in the photo above. The fruit forms a “neck” on the right side, due to missing fertilized seeds.
Cucumbers need to grow fast to be of good quality. Lack of water, excessive heat or cold, fertility, or plant disease can slow down growth. This makes the flesh tougher and dryer – and it can be bitter as well.
Anything that slows growth can cause bitterness – and this includes inadequate pollination. A poorly pollinated cucumber of the same size as a well pollinated one will usually be a day or two older. It will be tougher, and is more apt to be bitter.
Another problem with poor pollination is that the deformed area is the first place that spoilage will occur, if the grower tries to store, or send to market his or her cukes.
All in all, we see that good bee populations are critical to obtaining the perfect cuke.
Now, it is possible to hand pollinate cukes – yes, we can do the bee’s job, and we’ll talk about that in future articles. But, if you have more than a few plants that you are trying to hand pollinate, you’ll quickly come to appreciate the tremendous service the bees do for us!
Some have commented to me that I seem to spend an inordinate amount of my blog on the topic of pollination, and have asked why.
There are several answers. One is that good pollination information is hard to find, though there are many sources of inadequate, or just plain wrong information online. And a lot of garden and farming literature simply ignores pollination completely.
I was just looking around on the Internet at various Extension publications about watermelon culture, both for those who sell them and those who just raise them for home use. It’s surprising to me how many of them say nothing about pollination. To me, this is a disservice when a serious Extension publication purports to teach growers, yet assumes pollination will just take care of itself.
I have seen entire fields of watermelons, squash and other crops that were unharvestable or had to be severely culled, because of pollination failure. Pollination is a vital input in agriculture today, but it’s the least understood of all inputs.
So, as you can see, I am working on an article on watermelon pollination. If you don’t understand watermelon pollination, you don’t understant the plant!
A second reason that I concentrate on pollination is that this was my livelihood and specialty for my career. Although I am now retired from active duty in the contract pollination field, I figure it’s my responsibility to make sure I share the things I have learned in years of experience, observation, and study.
A third reason, is that I have available the many years of photos that I’ve taken, so I can usually well illustrate the points I make – and this makes it more interesting and clear for my readers.
You could say, this is the payment of dues for my spot on this earth. And I hope it does help!
Many gardeners, especially new ones, are dismayed to find that the luscious ears of sweet corn that they expected look more like this:
Only a few kernals are present on the cob! All that hard work, fertilizer, watering, and all is just wasted!
(Please note that all the illustrations of corn pollination are with field corn, as I do not currently have room for sweet corn in our garden – a problem I’m working on – but the illustrations will work fine; all the principles are exactly the same.)
There are two main reasons why we have failure to pollinate: one is that the pollen is dead, and the other is that the pollen just did not reach the female flowers.
Dead pollen is common in years of extreme heat and drought during the pollen shed time for corn. Corn is rather unique among plants in that it is on an exact schedule from the day it is planted until the day it is harvested. When pollination time comes, whatever will happen will happen, and it only lasts a few days, after which the opportunity is gone. The corn will go on doing its thing, but all the inputs of the farmer or gardener are wasted if pollination doesn’t occur.
Corn is generally wind pollinated. Lack of wind can be a big factor in corn pollination. When one sultry day follows after another, corn pollination can fail.
A morning thunderstorm can do an immense amount of pollination in that first rush of wind before the rain starts. There is normally a flush of pollen shed in the morning just after the dew dries, and there may be another smaller discharge in the evening as the air cools. The male flower is the tassel at the top of the stalk.
An acquaintance of mine had a charter helicopter service in Illinois, and he was kept busy during the corn pollen shed, by contracting with farmers to provide wind for pollination. He would hover over the fields, moving up and down the rows – and got paid for it, because it was a valuable service for the farmers.
The pollen is produced inside the anthers:
Gardeners generally have pollination problems for the second reason – pollen doesn’t reach the female flowers at the right time:
The silk is the female flower which can be seen at the tip of the incipient ears on the side of the cornstalk. Each thread connects to a single incipient kernal on the ear. When it is green and tender, it is receptive, but it will turn brown in just a few days and the opportunity to pollinate is gone.
When a grain of pollen falls and sticks to one of the silks, it begins to grow a pollen tube down inside the silk strand, right to the incipient seed, which it then fertilizes.
The problem with garden pollination is that there are usually few plants; not a whole field; there is a limited amount of pollen available – and it may blow the wrong way. New gardeners are frequently advised to use four short rows, rather than one long row, for this reason. Corn planted in blocks does pollinate a bit better.
For even more pollination insurance, do it by hand – it only takes a minute. When tassels first appear, pollen shed is only a day or two away. If you look at the tassels in early morning light, you can see the pollen, if you look toward the sun. If you shake a tassel there will be a visible dust from it, if it’s ready. If you shake it too hard, of course you’ll shake loose the anthers themselves.
So, when the tassels are ready, in the morning just after dew is mostly dry, bend a tassel over the silk (on another plant) and shake it.
Or you can snip a tassel and go down the row, “dusting” each silk. If you do it gently, focusing as much of the pollen on the silks as possible, you can do 10-15 ears for each tassel.
On bigger patches, you can simply walk the rows with your elbows out, so you give the stalks a bit of a jar, which will shake loose the pollen.
Some gardeners claim the process works better if you play soft music (but that may be a myth).
Corn is considered a wind pollinated plant. It’s pollen is tiny, and millions of grains are produced; only a small portion of them falling onto the female flowers.
Some falls on the leaves, some on the ground, and some will fall on your car hood, if you are downwind of a corn field.
Because the grains are small and have very little protein, they are not a priority pollen for bees to gather to feed their brood. However, many times corn pollen shed is during a general time of pollen dearth; on these occasions honey bees and bumble bees will vigorously gather corn pollen.
In the process of gathering, they will shake loose quite a bit also – and this can fall on adjacent plant silks. So, while corn is basically a wind pollinated plant, bees can be significant in pollination, particularly if there is no wind.